Pangi Valley is situated in the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh, bordering Jammu & Kashmir and Lahaul. The valley stretches along the Chandrabhaga (Chenab) River. Its remote location is both its charm and a curiosity.
One route approaches the valley from Chamba across Sach Pass, while the other route connects the valley from Manali via Keylong, through five districts of Himachal Pradesh.
The valley can also be accessed by taking the daring cliff-hanger road from Kishtwar, Jammu & Kashmir.
- Way back in August 1987, I set out on a journey from Dalhousie. Tissa -Taralla -Bairagarh – Satrundi- Sach Pass- Bagotu – Bindrabani – Killar was the probable route the team would follow.
Sach Pass is, though a tough Trek, yet a thrilling and adventurous experience. Over the peak with towering cliffs on one side and a sheer drop on the other is a test of one’s stamina.
Starting early in the morning from Satrundi 10,827 feet – crossing Sach 14,500 feet (approx.) high at noon, and going down to Bindrabani 9,022 feet for a night halt, was what our team and I did. If my calculation works, we had walked 25 KMs the first day; a test of endurance, indeed. Of course, if left to choice, I would have opted out for the night’s halt in between, but for the mules leaving with the baggage.
Intermingled with the job responsibility was an element of aroused astonishment.
At the pass, we had halted for refreshments at a makeshift hut, apparently managed by a lady alone. I was moved by her daredevilry and hearty hospitality. She told us she would consume a little sur (a drink) at night to feel bold. Crossing Sach Pass is not just a route; it is an experience. The journey is unpredictable.
The next day, we walked up to the jeep that had earlier been dropped by the helicopter, and we were in Killar in about an hour. The PWD rest house was comfortable. We had the privilege of opening the newly installed sanitary fittings, we were told.
Although Killar is modest in size, it plays an important role in local life. From this town, different routes lead into the hidden valleys and remote villages of the region.
- The very next year, we took the other route. The Manali–Udaipur route is open longer in the year compared to Sach Pass. We rode through Lahaul Valley, which offers its own spectacular landscapes.
The dazzling waterfalls on huge cliffs fall into the River Chenab.
Udaipur to Pangi is a rough road trail with many high cliffs and nallas. It is a narrow, shelf-road cut into the rock face. Narrow hairpin bends make the journey risky.
Crossing a riverside cliff trail with a fixed security rope is hair- raising. The confidence disappears fast.
We had a comfortable stay at the forest rest house, Purthi. There are interesting anecdotes about a British man by the name ‘Todd Sahib’.
Pangi is a feeling of solitude and connection with nature. The place is unique in its grandeur and beauty.
It gives plenty of options for hiking, long trekking, and climbing. It has multi-community villages, monasteries, and temples. These include green meadows, rugged rocky mountains, and glistening glaciers.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Pangi Valley is that it is not a single valley. Instead, it is made up of several smaller regions locally known as Bhatoris, each with its own landscape and temperament.
It feels like stepping back in time, where nature and culture remain deeply connected.
The way to Pangi is rugged; being there with lovable people of caring and sharing nature is an experience in itself.
https://hillpost.in/2026/07/houses-of-pangi/169183/
Prof. (Er.) Chander P Mahajan is an art critic & a free lance journalist. The Environmentalist stays in Shimla and Dalhousie, Himachal Pradesh, India.
