Since ancient times the majestic Kumaon Himalayas in the north Indian state of Uttrakhand has been a preferred place for Yoga, meditation and other spiritual austerities. Justifiably, the Kumaon Himalaya is popularly referred to as the “Devbhumi” or the abode of Gods! Being a Yoga practitioner myself, I had this long cherished desire to visit the Kumaon Himalayas and Oh God! Aren’t they awe-inspiring?
To explore the rarefied beauty of the Kumaon region, I choose the quaint hill station of Almora, also popularly referred to as the “Cultural Capital of Kumaon” as my base. Almora is beautifully perched at an altitude of 1642 m and I must confess, the profundity of the jaw dropping Himalayan peaks touches you immensely. In this part of the world, there is no crass commercialism of the Tourism phenomenon. Almora has somehow managed to remain obscure, laidback and un-hyped.
It did help my Himalayan rejuvenation cause a lot – courtesy my Kumaoni friend – Chandan Singh Koranga, whose family have been the natives of this enchanting mountain state for centuries together. Chandan has been guiding visitors who come in search of spiritual upliftment, tranquillity and immersive tours to Kumaon. His signature Wood Villas in Dhamas hamlet, 15 Kms. away from Almora is located in a picture perfect setting, on the backdrop of the awesome Himalayan peaks.
One must bear in mind that Kumaon isn’t at all about high octane mountaineering; rather, it is about tranquillity and peace. It is one region of India, where you can leave your so-called civilization behind (at least for a week or so) and embrace the meditative Himalayas, breathe the same air that the ancient Rishis of yore breathed and go back home, a thoroughly transformed person!
Chandan’s strategy for exploring the grandeur of the Kumaon Himalayas is innovative and he relies on his own decade’s long personal observation of the “Visitor Mindset” through which he offers tailor-made itineraries with a fusion of soft treks and cultural immersion to visitors from abroad.
Tour & Trek Options
Kasar Devi
I would give Kasar Devi a 5 star rating. If you are in search of true bliss, this is the place to be in. Just 9 Kms. away from Almora, the Himalayan panorama surrounding Kasar Devi is breathtaking. And, when it comes to soul enrichment, the entire Kasar Devi hill is actually a massive geomagnetic radiation field , courtesy, the Van Allen Belt. There are only two other such Van Allen Belts – Machu Picchu in Peru and Stonehenge in England.
Kasar Devi’s potent energy fields and the picturesque Himalayan surroundings offer today’s jaded traveller a spiritual nectar that is truly indescribable. Apart from being a much preferred place for Sadhana & Meditation since ancient times, great men and women of the stature of Swami Vivekananda, Noble Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, Bob Dylan, George Harrison, Cat Stevens, Allen Ginsburg, Steve Jobs to name just a few have been past visitors to Kasar Devi.
This places oozes with spiritual energy and so strong is the influence that even people with psychiatric disorders find relief by spending some quality time here.
The five peaks of Panchachuli as viewed from Kasar Devi hills along with the awe-inspiring Nanda Devi Parbat makes for a remarkable kaleidoscopic vignette.
Pindari Glacier Trek
This is a moderately challenging trek and meant for experienced trekkers. You need to be reasonably fit as the trek advances through thick forest and one has to encounter swift flowing Himalayan streams and rocky crests.
Located at an altitude, which is all of 12,300 feet above sea level, the awe-inspiring sight of Pindari Glacier at Zero Point has mesmerised trekkers from the world over.
To provide an exhilarating trekking experience to avid trekkers, Chandan’s itinerary takes you on a journey from Almora to Kharkiya on a 4×4 drive and from thereon on foot. The stretch from Khati to Dwali is particularly challenging as the terrain is steep and the topography changes dramatically.
However, all your trekker’s fatigue vanishes once you set up your camp and relax on the backdrop of the magnificent Pindari Glacier.
Dunagiri Trek
One of India’s most hallowed Yoga and meditation hub is Dunagiri. This has been the preferred place of practicing Kriya Yoga as propounded by the ancient Rishi – His Holiness Mahavatar Babaji. The meditation chamber (cave) is tucked up in Kukuchina on the Pandukholi mountain.
Spiritual seekers engage in deep meditation and Kriya Yoga as espoused by Mahavatar Babaji centuries back. Kriya Yoga has caught the attention of the world’s spiritual seekers as a tool towards attaining an elevated spiritual plane.
Mahavatar Babaji is believed to be around 2000 years old (presuming that he is alive). It was Swami Paramahansa Yogananda, who first introduced Mahavatar Babaji to the world through his literary work –“Autobiography of a Yogi”.
The trek to Dunagiri and the time you spend there in contemplation could be a life changing experience. Here in the lap of the Himalayas, India’s ancient wisdom and Kriya Yoga techniques will lead you to path of divinity. It is one of India’s best off-grid spiritual experience to savour.
Chandan himself takes visitors on orientation tours to the Kumaoni villages close by that are steeped in century’s old mythology and one can observe the beautiful Kumaoni mountain life unfold in front of your naked eyes like a veil slipping out of the forehead of a gorgeous bride!
Katarmal Sun Temple Trek
According to Chandan, the Katarmal Sun Temple trek (16 Kms. from Almora) is a light trek (Halka Fulka Trek) that doesn’t really test your endurance; rather, this trek is more cultural and is an ode to ancient India’s mastery on architecture and astronomy.
This outstanding 9th century Sun Temple is built in such a scientific manner that the temple’s East-West configuration, done so meticulously, allows the sun’s rays to lighten up the sanctum sanctorum on certain significant days. Apart from the main temple, there are a cluster of 45 other shrines with idols of Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati and other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon.
The majestic Himalayan panorama as viewed from the temple premise is every bit awe-inspiring, with the mount Nanda Devi, India’s second highest mountain (7816m) towering above like a sentinel.
Village excursions offer visitors with a once-in-a-lifetime’s opportunity to indulge in concepts like Slow Living & Mindfulness. Visitors get a chance to appreciate the simple delights of everyday life in Kumaon as they go about caring for livestock, prepare firewood and still take great pride on characters from the Hindu epics – Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
Try to coincide your visit to Katarmal with any Hindu festivals, for a chance to partake in the rich cultural fiesta of Kumaon. Their traditional dance forms like Jhora Chanchari, Hukriya Baul and Chholiya have captivated the outside world for centuries together.
Almora Bazaar Walks
The Himalayas does have an influence on you in terms of peace, well being and mindfulness. However, most visitors tend to overlook the cultural side of the Himalayas in their desire to reach those imposing snow clad peaks and jaw dropping mountain panorama.
Keeping this in mind, the Himalayas are a class apart when it comes to walking tours; more so, if these walks are “Bazaar” or Market-centric, as they are a beehive of activity through trade and commerce, thereby connecting people and cultures. It is through such connections that visitors and locals alike get to know each other’s diversity.
The bazaars of Almora are bustling nerve centres and each bazaar has its own charismatic charm. Chandan’s signature Almora Bazaar Walks have touched the heart of countless discerning visitors, many of them repeat visitors, who were bewildered by the rich assortments of Almora’s bazaars.
Needless to say, Chandan’s Almora Bazaar Walks are 100% private, bespoke and guided walking tours that takes you along some of Kumaon’s most intriguing markets.
Khazanchi Mohallah & Johari Walk
In the days of yore, Almora used to be the bastion of royalty where trading in gold, silver and jewellery was commonplace. You can still find an exclusive settlement of goldsmiths at the Johari market where some of Kumaon’s best jewellers have their outlets selling traditional Kumaoni jewelleries like nose rings, necklaces and wide variety of bangles.
Gold and jewellery aside, the Johari market is renowned for the world famous Pashmina and Angora wools, stitched to perfection by highly skilled tailors.
Paltan Bazaar
The meandering slate roads of Paltan bazaar has quite a bit of history. In fact, this bazaar dates back to 16th century and was built by the then royalty – Raja Kalyan Chand. The main bazaar road Bazaar is renowned for the Clock Tower of Almora. This unique eclectic Clock Tower is made of stone and there is a tin roof protecting the clock at the centre. If you walk further ahead to the end of the road, the intricately carved statues of India’s freedom fighters Dr.B.R. Ambedkar and Victor Mohan Joshi reminds one of Almora’s immense contribution towards India’s freedom struggle.
Kutchery Bazaar
Kutchery Bazaar in Hindi indicates “the bazaar of Court” and this famed bazaar is at least 500 years old. In this bazaar, some of Uttrakhand’s priceless copperware collections are available for sale. In the days of yore, the coopersmiths, who are still referred to as “Tamtas” used to work in Royal Palace as coin makers. After the fall of the erstwhile Chand dynasty, these highly skilled “Tamtas” began to manufacture copper utensils, which are considered to be great pieces of Kumaoni art.
Lala Badri Sah House
Lala Badri Sah’s residence is a must visit site as it once hosted India’s Cyclonic Monk – Swami Vivekananda who spent quite some time here in August 1890 for spiritual austerities. The local folklore is ripe with stories and legends surrounding the great Swami.
Wrapping Up:
People from across the world come to the Himalayas in search of peace and solitude. Practising yoga and meditation in the Himalayas can be a very purifying experience. The Kumaon Himalayas, which has been the hub of Yoga & Meditation since ancient times, has emerged as contemporary India’s most idyllic region for Yoga practitioners. The oxygen concentration being high and with the easy availability of Carbon Neutral sites, the Kumaon Himalayas offers an irresistible invitation to indulge in a rejuvenating Body-Mind-Soul purification journey.
Subhasish Chakraborty is a travel journalist who loves mountains and trekking. He is from Kalyani in District Nadia, West Bengal.
