Ladakh is certainly a mystic land of India. The high altitude cold arid region allures visitors across the world by its spectacular beauty, towering mountain ranges, photogenic landscapes, wide expanse, and spiritual environs offering soulful relax. There are good reasons to call the place as the amphitheatre of nature for the variegated manifestation of natural elements. The wonderland is full of many fabulous destinations providing enriching experiences and enduring memories for life time. Altogether, it is truly a traveller’s paradise.
Changthang region in Ladakh is basically an extension of Tibetan Plateau. It is an enormously vast area spread in several square miles across length and breadth. The landscape is predominantly barren and elevation ranges from 9000- 14000 feet above mean sea level. The climatic conditions in this part of the world are very harsh dominated by severe coldness, intense radiation, dipping temperatures, strong winds, sparse vegetation compounded by minimal resources for survival. But, travelers love to visit here for immersion in charisma of Changthang. Sloping hills, stunningly attractive lakes, presence of rare animals and plants are the prominent expressions to vale’s stark beauty.
Gorgeous Glacial lakes……………..
The amazing water bodies of Changthang are just like crowing jewels of Ladakh Himalayas. Pangong Tso, Tsomoriri, Tsokar are the ones most talked about and admired due to their impeccable beauty. From Leh side, Changla pass is the gateway to Changthang plateau. The pass is situated at an impressive height of 17600 feet. The road from here leads to Pangong Lake. The lake is spread across India and China and attracts throng of tourists in peak season. Under the clear blue sky and amidst barren mountains, the lake appears to change its colour. The splendour of exquisite water body is simply beyond words.
Tso Moriri Lake is other marvel of Changthang Plateau located about 12000 feet above sea level. It is a serene and sacred high altitude lake. The lake and its surroundings constitute a part of Tsomorri Wetland Conservation Reserve and act as habitat of rare wild life of Ladakh.
Similarly, Tso Kar lake is an important wetland complex of Changthang plateau. The surroundings of highly brackish water lake is ideal stopover of migratory avian fauna including the black necked Crane (Grus nigricollis), the state bird of Ladakh UT.
Unique Biodiversity ……………..
Changthang is a rich repository of unique biodiversity and represents assemblage of plants and animals including many rare endemic species. Sighting of Himalayan blue sheep (Pseudois nayaur), Tibetian Wild Ass or Kiang (Equus kiang), Himalayan Marmots (Marmota himalayana) do not require much effort. But, seeing the splendid species like Snow leopard (Panthera uncia ) is barely a matter of chance or luck.
During the favorable seasons, the arid terrain of Changthang gets bloomed up with the multi- coloured floral attributes. Himlayan Lakspur (Delphinium sp), Himalayan rubrub (Rheum sp), Waldheimia sp, Geum sp, Carragana sp, and many more……………………….
To bear with the extremely harsh climatic conditions, flora and fauna of Changthang plateau possess distinct morphological features. These include presence of tiny leaves, thorns, deep root system and cushion habits in planta and stocky body structure, hibernation and swift movement in case of animal species.
Changpas and Pashmina Narratives ……………..
Basically, Changthang is a union of two separate words. Where, Chang translates as Nomads and Thang as plains. So, Changthang means Nomads of Plains. It is the homeland of Changpas, which is a semi-nomadic tribe. Since centuries, Changpas are living in the area with their livestock defying all odds, harsh and challenging conditions. Interestingly, the tribal community used to live in makeshift houses called ‘Reibo’, finding ways and means to survive using minimal available resources sustainably. They shunned away from modernity and maintaining perfect harmony with nature around. Pastoralism is the way of life for these people rear Changthangi goat (Capra hircus ). It is a rare breed of goat only found in Changthang and provides famous Pashmina (cashmere) wool. The finest fibre is known for its extraordinary thinness, softness and warmth. The Changthangi goat yields best quality pashmina having fineness to the limit of 14-19 µm diameter.
The journey of Kashmir Pashmina handloom industry starts from the highlands of Changthang. A leisurely rendezvous with traditional herders unfolds the process of collection of raw wool from goats. It is harvesting by a special type of comb during the molting season and afterwards meticulously cleaned for removal of dust particles, etc. Then, the raw material is sold after proper sorting spinning and processing. Subsequently, after going through a series of systematic and meticulous procedures involving natural dyeing, weaving, embroidery, etc., carried out by the skillful and master handicraft artisans in Kashmir Valley, and finally the loom of Changthang plains comes out in the form of exquisite quality expensive fabrics (Shawls, Scarfs, Sarees, Wraps, Mufflers….) showcased brightly in outlets .
Fine wool products in Leh market
Though, the highly priced natural commodity is produced by rearing of special type of goats in enormously inclement climatic conditions. Paradoxically, the price fetched from selling the raw material does not commensurate to difficulties faced by the community engaged in this herculean task. Nevertheless, the culture aspects of Chanpas epitomizes interesting primitive traditions, rich heritage and cementing bond with nature. The lifestyle deeply interwoven with pashmina goats and surely it is a mainstay of livelihood. The following excerpts from the book titled Pashmina: The Kashmir Shawl and Beyond, highlights the significance aptly.
Oh goat, for the grass that you’ve just eaten
Give us some good pashm,
Oh goat, for the water that you’ve just drunk
Give us some good pashm,
Oh goat, Sit down on the grass and be still,
So that we can take out your pashm
Surely, the Changthang plateau of Ladakh is beautiful highland ecosystem filled with colors of ecological, socio-cultural and biological distinctness. Sadly, increasing tourism pressure, migration, and catastrophic impacts of climate changes are potential threats to the unique region. Steps are needed to be taken for protection and preservation of lofty pristine plateau, a gift of nature.
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With over 15 years of experience in Forest Ecology, Soil Analysis, and Herbarium methods, Dushyant Kumar, from Himalayan Forest Research Institute (HFRI), Shimla, has published research and technical papers related to Plant diversity, Forest Soil Properties and Medicinal plants.
Preferring to stay close to nature life cycles, he is a staunch supporter of sustainable management of nature’s resources of forests, land and rivers.
Changtang in Ladakh is a fascinating region, which unknown to me and the author has done an excellent job capturing its unique balance of ecology, economy and culture. The insights on Pashmina wool, flora and fauna are particularly well-presented, showcasing both its beauty and challenges. A thoughtful and engaging piece !
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